Dublin (Baile Átha Cliath): A Brief Guide

Joseph Donnelly
Librarian, The Judges' Library, Dublin. July 2000

- This document may be downloaded and copied for personal use. -

Ptolemy (A.D. 140) referred to a settlement in the area of Dublin as Eblana. Later, in Christian Gaelic times, there were two settlements, one secular and one monastic, on the south bank of the River Liffey. The secular site, an agricultural and fishing community, was Áth Cliath, in the area around where St. Audoen's Church now is. It took its name from a nearby ford on the river, made of hurdle-work (Áth Cliath - Ford of Hurdles), and gives us the modern Gaelic name for Dublin, Baile Átha Cliath (Town of the Hurdle Ford). That ford was near today's Father Mathew Bridge (Church St. Bridge), and was part of an ancient road system. The road continued north-west along present-day Stoneybatter, towards Tara.

Further down-river, close to where the river Poddle (now culverted under the city centre) joins the Liffey (near Parliament St.), a tidal black pool (linn dubh or dubh linn) formed on the Poddle (where the Castle Garden now is, on the south of Dublin Castle). A monastic settlement close by (around Aungier St.) took its name, Dubh Linn, from the black pool, and gives us the modern English name of Dublin (via Dyflin and Dyvelin).

In A.D. 841, Norsemen established a ship harbour (Longphort) at the confluence of the Poddle and the Liffey (around Lord Edward St.), and adopted the name of Dubhlinn or Dyflin for their settlement from the monastic settlement on the other side of the pool. These Vikings had arrived about three years earlier, marking their landing site with a long stone (commemorated today by a stone outside Pearse St. Garda Station at the junction of d'Olier St., Pearse St. and College St.). Their assembly point for discussions and judicial proceedings was a circular mound, the Thingmount (around the point where St. Andrew St. and Suffolk St. now meet).

In the 10th and 11th centuries, the Scandinavian kingdom of Dublin was of international importance, and very significant remains of Viking settlement were found on Wood Quay during the construction of the Civic Offices there. The town defences would in time extend from St. Augustine St. to Parliament St. (the base of a round fortification tower, known as 'Isolda's Tower' was recently excavated on Essex Quay, a few yards from the corner of Parliament St.), and the town grew out into the river, as quays were built up, channelling the river. Remains of the city walls can be seen in some places. St Audoen's Arch (1240) is the only surviving city gate, and the wall stands on each side of it in Cook St. (behind "Adam & Eve's" Church, or the Church of the Immaculate Conception (RC), on Merchants Quay). St. Audoen's Church (C of I), the oldest parish church in Dublin was founded in the 12th century. St. Patrick's Cathedral (13th century; C of I) and Christchurch Cathedral (12th-13th centuries; C of I) have both been extensively restored, especially Christchurch, though much remains inside.

A suburb developed on the north side of the Liffey, served by St. Michan's Church, which was founded in the late 11th century, rebuilt in 1685-6, and restored in the 19th century.

In 1170 Dublin came under Norman control, when it was captured by the joint forces of the Gaelic King Dermot McMurrough (who had returned from the exile forced on him by King Rory O'Connor) and McMurrough's Norman son-in-law, Richard FitzGilbert de Clare (known as Strongbow), who maintained control after McMurrough's death, but lost it to Henry II of England, who made Dublin the centre of English power in Ireland for centuries. In the 13th century, Dublin Castle was founded, and it was added to over the centuries.

In 1312, the city walls took in land north of the Liffey. Throughout the Middle Ages, Dublin was, however, centred on the area around High St. and Winetavern St.

The balance of the city later shifted eastwards, and northwards. In the 18th century, when Dublin was the second city of the British Empire, Georgian streets and squares, such a notable feature of Dublin today, were laid out - Merrion Square, Fitzwilliam Square, and so forth on the south side, and on the north side Henrietta St.,  and the area of the Gardiner Estate:  Parnell Square, Gardiner St., Mountjoy Square. The private homes of the time often feature beautiful interiors with elaborate plaster-work. In addition to the ordinary, if comfortable, homes, there were some palatial homes, such as that of the Duke of Leinster, Leinster House in Kildare Street (later owned by the Royal Dublin Society, and now home to the Dáil and Seanad, two houses of the Oireachtas or Parliament) and Powerscourt Town House (now a shopping centre). Important public buildings also appeared, including the new Four Courts, the Royal Exchange (the City Hall since the mid 19th century), the Parliament building (now the Bank of Ireland in College Green), the Custom House, much of Dublin Castle, and, a little later, the General Post Office. With the Act of Union 1800, the kingdoms of Ireland and Great Britain were amalgamated into the United Kingdom from January 1801, and the Irish Parliament ceased to exist (the Chamber of the Irish House of Lords can still be visited). A good deal of the beautiful Georgian city later fell into decline, becoming tenement houses, or being destroyed during the 1960s, '70s and '80s to make way for office blocks.

During the Easter Rising of 1916, the Irish Republic was proclaimed from the General Post Office, which had been taken by the insurgents, and there was much destruction in the suppression of the rising. The execution of the leaders mobilized public opinion and the War of Independence continued. The Government of Ireland Act 1920 provided for limited self government for separate states in northern and southern Ireland, and the Anglo-Irish Treaty ended the War of Independence and established the Irish Free State with its Provisional Government. This was opposed by the Republican wing, which occupied the Four Courts during the Civil War which followed, again with much destruction to building and public records. When Republican opinion (in the form of the Fianna Fáil party) became dominant in later elections, a new Constitution was introduced (1937), and the (southern) state was renamed Éire or Ireland. More recently, the most significant legal and constitutional development is the process which has led to the existence of the European Union, and the pooling of a proportion of the sovereignty of each member state in the larger political entity.

The following are some places which might be visited on a short stay in Dublin. Those in the city centre are listed as if taken in on a tour going from west to east, and then northwards, but there is too much to be covered in one tour. However, particular items on the agenda might be picked out if they are of interest, or a segment of the tour could be completed. Some that seem particularly worthwhile are highlighted below, but this is just a personal choice. Details of access/opening times should be confirmed, e.g., at a tourist information centre such as those in St. Andrew's Street (the old church) or O'Connell St. Various bus tours around the city, with commentary, are also available. Some entertainment venues are mentioned at the end of this guide.

Day Trip:

A pleasant day trip would be to County Wicklow: Powerscourt House and gardens (the house was gutted by fire in 1974, but reopened in 1997, largely as a collection of shops), Avoca, the Meeting of the Waters, Avondale and Glendalough. Glendalough is a lovely valley with two small lakes, and early Christian remains, including a round tower. If only one place is to be reached on a bus trip, Glendalough is recommended.

Suburbs:

In Glasnevin on the north side of the city, a short bus-ride from the city centre (buses 13, 19, 134), are the National Botanic Gardens (Tel. 8374388). Summer Mon.-Sat. 9.00 a.m. - 6.00 p.m., Sun. 11.00 a.m. - 6.00 p.m.; winter Mon. - Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 4.30 p.m.; Sun 11.00 a.m. - 4.30 p.m. Some glasshouses close during lunch. Free. Adjacent to the Botanic Gardens is Prospect Cemetery,  Glasnevin (Tel 830 1133, bus 40 from the city centre). Mon.- Sat. 9.30 a.m. - 6.00 p.m., Sun. 9.30 - 5.00 p.m., closing earlier in winter. Buried in the cemetery are political figures such as O'Connell, Parnell, Collins, de Valera, and writers such as Behan and Gerard Manley Hopkins. Free tours are available Wednesdays and Fridays at 2.30 p.m.

Malahide Castle (Tel. 846 2184, bus 42) has gardens, a part of the National Portrait Collection, and the Fry Model Railway. Mon. - Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 4.40 p.m., Sun. 11.00 a.m. - 5.40 p.m. (on Sundays Model Railway from 2.00 p.m.). Castle £3.15 (there are also concessions and group rates), Castle and Railway £4.85.

Howth Castle is private (hotel and golf) but open to the public are the grounds with rhododendrons, and the National Transport Museum (Tel. 832 0427, bus 31 or Dart train). Mon. - Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m., Sun. & Bank Holidays 2.00 p.m. - 5.00 p.m. (in winter open only Sat., Sun. and Hols) 

City Centre:

Depending on your interests (historical, cultural, everyday life), the weather etc., you could pick some of the following:

1. The Phoenix Park.

Royal deer park, opened to the public in 1747. Largest enclosed park in Europe (1750 acres). Take the No.10 bus going north up O'Connell St. to Infirmary Rd. (near the Dublin Zoo); or buses such as the No.90 going westwards from Connolly Station to Heuston Station, then cross the bridge to the north side of the Liffey and walk up Parkgate St. to the main entrance of the Park. The  People's Gardens; Wellington Monument; Dublin Zoo (Tel. 677 1425; Mon. - Sat. 9.30 a.m. - 6.00 p.m., Sun. 10.30 a.m. - 6.00 p.m., last admission 5.00 p.m., may be earlier in winter; £6.30, £3.70 children over 3, family rates); Áras an Uachtaráin (1751: residence of the President, formerly Viceregal Lodge); toilets at the Visitor Centre in Ashtown Castle near the Phoenix Monument of Lord Chesterfield (daily 10.00 a.m. - 6.00 p.m., last admission 5.00 or 5.15 p.m., winter Sat. - Sun. only 9.30 a.m. - 4.30 p.m., £2.00 and concessions/children); free-roaming herds of fallow deer (usually around the 15 acres, to the south of the papal cross); a small Bronze Age dolmen west of St Mary's Hospital on a hill above the Upper Glen Road which runs along the south-west of the Park. Ryan's pub, in Parkgate St. is an attractive traditional pub.

2. Kilmainham to Thomas St.

Near Parkgate Street, but to the south of the river Liffey, is the Royal Hospital, Military Rd., Kilmainham (1684), once a home for retired soldiers, now housing the Irish Museum of Modern Art (Tel. 612 9900, buses 68, 68A, 69, 78A, 79 from city centre, or 90, 123 as far as Heuston Station and walk). Tues. - Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 5.30 p.m., Sun. 12.00 - 5.30 p.m., also open Bank Holiday Mondays. Free). A little further west is the decommissioned Kilmainham Gaol, Inchicore Rd., now a museum (Tel. 453 5984, buses 50, 51B, 69, 78A, 79 from city centre). Mainly concerned with the emergence of the State and political figures who were imprisoned there. Daily, 9.30 a.m. - 4.45 p.m., £3.50 (and concessions £2.50, £1.50). Also in the general area is the Guinness Hopstore Visitor Centre, Crane St., off Thomas St., south of the Liffey. Tel 4538 364. Mon. - Sat. 9.30 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. (last admission), Sun. & Bank Holidays 10.30 a.m. - 4.30 p.m. (may be different in winter). Buses 78A, 78B from city centre. £5.00 (£4.00 concessions, £1.00 children). Brewing museum and sample. Free car park.

3. North quays from Collins Barracks to Smithfield.

Overlooking the quays on the north of the Liffey, near Parkgate St. is Collins Barracks (1701) in Benburb St. (set back from Wolfe Tone Quay) which contains part of the collection of the National Museum of Ireland (decorative arts, and economic, social, political and military history; same hours as the museum headquarters, in Kildare St., below). A special bus links Collins Barracks, with the National Museum in Kildare Street and the nearby Natural History Museum - £2.00 for the day, it leave about every hour. In Blackhall Place, the former "Bluecoat School" is now the home of the Law Society of Ireland, professional body of Irish solicitors. Smithfield is a large market square between Blackhall Place and the Four Courts and the area is being redeveloped. In Smithfield itself an observation platform has been placed on the former Jameson Distillery chimney. Mon. - Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 6.00 p.m., Sunday 11.00 a.m. - 7.00 p.m. (may be different in winter). £5.00, £4.00 concessions, £3.50 children. Beside it, at Chief O'Neill's Hotel in Smithfield, is Ceol, an Irish Traditional Music Centre. Interactive display and exhibition with 180 degree screen (allow an hour and a half). Mon. - Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 6.00 p.m., Sun. 11.00 a.m. - 7.00 p.m. £5.00 (concessions £4.00, children £3.50). Traditional music Tues. - Sat. 8.30 p.m. - 11.30 p.m., Sun 1.00 p.m. - 4.00 p.m. (with dancers), Jazz Fri. 8.30 p.m. - 11.30 p.m. Traditional music can often be heard in the Cobblestone pub at the north end of Smithfield. Next to Smithfield, the Old Jameson Distillery in Bow St. has been developed for shopping and eating, and there are guided tours of the former distillery:  Daily, 9.30 a.m. - 5.15 p.m., Adults £3.95.

4. St. Michan's Church, Church St. (Church of Ireland).

Founded 1095, rebuilt in the 1680s, and restored in 1828. An old tradition says that Handel played the organ which is still in this church on his stay in Dublin when Messiah was  premièred in the Musick Hall, Fishamble St (1742). Dry vaults have mummified bodies buried there (recently vandalized), which can be seen by visitors. Leaflet for church, tour of crypt. Tel. 872 4154. Mon. - Fri. 10.00 a.m. - 12.45 p.m. & 2.00 p.m. - 4.45 p.m., Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 12.45 p.m. Nov. - early March opening may be restricted on weekdays to mornings or 12.30 p.m. - 3.30 p.m. £2.00, concessions £1.50, children £1.00. Sunday service 10.00 a.m.

5. The Four Courts, Inns Quay.

Designed by Thomas Cooley and (on Cooley's death) James Gandon. Opened in 1796 on a site formerly occupied by the King's Inns (which is now located further north, at Henrietta St.), it was named after the old divisions of Chancery Exchequer, King's Bench and Common Pleas. It was gutted during the Civil War in 1922, and later restored. Apart from the Round Hall, the interior is not impressive, but the building should be seen from the outside at least. Display boards inside illustrate the history of the building.

6. View of the Civic Offices on Wood Quay.

The first two blocks ("The Civic Bunkers") were built, amid controversy, on the Wood Quay site where important Viking remains had been excavated. Years later, the long riverside block was added (in place of two more blocks in the same style as the first two, which had been the original plan). Just downstream, near Parliament St. was the site of the original Viking harbour (longphort) and settlement of Dubh Linn or Dyflin. The bridge linking the Four Courts and the Civic Offices is called O'Donovan Rossa Bridge (or Winetavern St. Bridge). Upstream, on the far side of the Four Courts is Fr Mathew Bridge, linking Church St. and Bridge St. Near to it (perhaps just upstream of it) would have been the ancient hurdle-work ford, and Áth Cliath developed in the area at the top of Bridge St. hill.

7. City Walls & St Audoen's.

Following Winetavern St. towards Christchurch, you might turn right into Cook St., at the back of Merchants Quay Church (R.C., the Church of the Immaculate Conception, but known as "Adam & Eve's" after a pub which once stood there, at the back of which mass was said in Penal times). On the left is St. Audoen's Arch, the only surviving city gate (A.D. 1240), and the city wall is visible each side of it. Go through the arch and up to St. Audoen's Church (Church of Ireland), the oldest parish church in Dublin  (founded A.D. 1190 by the Normans).  On Sundays Holy Communion 10.15 a.m., otherwise visit by contacting the vicar, Rev. Canon J.W.R. Crawford, tel. 454 2274.  The ancient settlement of Áth Cliath was in the area west of St. Audoen's, and the ford of hurdles (áth cliath) crossed the river near (a little upstream?) the bridge at the bottom of Bridge St.  The tall church beside St. Audoen's is new St. Audoen's (R.C.) built after Catholic Emancipation and opened in 1846 (Sunday mass 11.00 a.m.)

8. Christchurch Cathedral.

Along High St. to return to Christchurch Cathedral & Synod House (Church of Ireland). Christ Church was founded 1038, but the external fabric is largely 19th century restoration, apart from the crypt. Visit to church and Dublinia exhibition in the Synod House on the other side of the road (linked by bridge) is all included in one admission ticket (adults £3.95, concessions). Tel. 679 4611. Apr.-Sep. daily 10.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m.;  hours may be shorter in winter).

9. St Patrick's Cathedral.

Up Nicholas St. and Patrick St. to St. Patrick's Cathedral (Church of Ireland), where Jonathan Swift was Dean and where he is buried. An early Christian church had been built on the site with its well associated with St. Patrick. The present building was built in the 13th century (later restored). Visit.

10. Dublin Castle.

Back to Christchurch Place, then to Dublin Castle. Maybe a quick diversion to St. Werburgh's Church (Church of Ireland; mid 18th century; open by arrangement?)  Along Lord Edward St., right into Cork Hill, into Dublin Castle (Tel. 677 7580). Visit. Mon. - Fri. 10.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m., Sat. Sun. Bank Holidays 2.00 p.m. - 5.00 p.m. Last guided tour 4.50 p.m. Courtyards etc. free, tours of apartments £3.00 (concessions £2.00, children £1.00)    Founded in the middle ages, now largely 18th century. The centre of British administration in Ireland and home of the Viceroys until the building of the Viceregal Lodge (now Áras an Uachtaráin) in the Phoenix Park. Courtyards, State Apartments with Throne Room, Chapel Royal, Norman record tower.

11. Chester Beatty Library.

Formerly in the southside suburbs, Chester Beatty Library (Tel. 407 0750) is now housed within Dublin Castle. Visit. Actually a museum of international importance, a collection, left to Ireland by the American industrialist Sir Alfred Chester Beatty: old Christian scriptures, Qurans, oriental and western paintings and artefacts, prints, manuscripts, and so forth. Mon. - Fri. 10.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m., Sat. 11.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m., Sun. 1.00 p.m. - 5.00 p.m. Note, the museum used to close on Mondays, and Monday closure may be reintroduced in autumn 2000. Tours Wed. 1.00 p.m. & Sun. 3.00 p.m. Tours for groups can be arranged. Main exhibitions free; there may be a charge (£1.00 or £2.00) for special exhibitions .

12. City Hall, Cork Hill.

Designed, as the Royal Exchange, by Thomas Cooley, this has been the City Hall since the middle of the 19th century. Quick visit. Down Parliament St. to Essex Quay. Quick look at the outside of Sunlight Chambers, Italianate building (better viewed from the bridge) with coloured frieze depicting the history of soap.

13. Temple Bar

West Essex St. runs from Parliament St to Fishamble St. (where the Musick Hall once stood which saw the première of Handel's Messiah 1742). This area was once home to various markets and businesses, as witnessed by the street names - Fish shambles, Merchants Quay, Wood Quay (timber), Winetavern St. In West Essex St. there is the Dublin's Viking Adventure. Tel. 6796040. Tues. - Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 4.30 p.m. Closed Sun. - Mon. Actors portray Viking life (45 minutes - 1 hour). £4.95, children £2.50. The area between Parliament St. and Westmoreland St., and between the Liffey and Dame St. is known as Temple Bar. A small area of old narrow streets, it was to have been demolished, but was saved and renovated (many would say it lost its original character in the process). It is lively, with shops and dining, pubs and street events.

14. Along Dame St. to College Green, passing the Olympia Theatre.

18th century Parliament building (now Bank of Ireland) in College Green, facing Trinity College. House of Lords Chamber open to the public (Tour lasts 45 minutes: Tuesdays 10.30 a.m., 11.30 a.m. and 1.45 p.m.; chamber accessible throughout banking hours, 10.00 a.m. - 4.00 p.m., if not in use)

15. Tourist Information.

Call up to St. Andrew's Church, junction of St. Andrew's St and Suffolk St. Now a Dublin Tourist Information Centre, with gift shops etc. There is another one in Upper O'Connell St.

16. Trinity College Dublin.

Sole college of Dublin University - not to be confused with University College Dublin nor with Dublin City University). Founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I the oldest buildings remaining are the Rubrics (1700). Built on the site of the Priory of All Hallows which had been founded by Dermot McMurrough. Visit the Old Library for the Book of Kells, Book of Durrow etc., and exhibition on the production of manuscripts. Tel. 608 2308. Mon. - Fri. 9.30 a.m. - 5.00 p.m., Sun. 9.30 a.m. - 4.30 p.m. (in winter Sunday hours are 12.30 p.m. - 4.30 p.m.). £4.50, concessions. College grounds are free.

17. Grafton St.

South up Grafton St. Shopping here, Duke St, South Anne St. etc. Cut up the narrow alley called Johnson Court, to the Powerscourt Town House Centre, formerly a palatial town house, it now contains shops, restaurants, galleries, antique shops etc., with covered central courtyard. Worth a visit. Some plaster-work remains on the main staircase (South William St. entrance). Also in Sth William St. is the Civic Museum, a small collection relating to Dublin's past. Back to Grafton St. for coffee in Bewley's?

18. Further south to St Stephen's Green.

A pleasant park. People's Art exhibition with pictures on sale on the outside railings at weekends. Stephen's Green Shopping Centre is an elaborate iron and glass construction beside the Green. The Gaiety Theatre is nearby in South King St. Tel. 677 1717. On the north side of the Green is the Shelbourne Hotel (where traditional afternoon tea is served).

19. Concert Hall.

On the far side of the Green (south east) is Earlsfort Terrace and the National Concert Hall (often lunchtime concerts lasting an hour or so, in addition to evening events). Meals served. Tel. 475 1572.

20. Dawson St.

North along Dawson St. from north side of the Green towards Trinity College. Pass the Mansion House, a Queen Anne (1710) building designed by Dawson, now residence of the Lord Mayor. The Royal Irish Academy (1769) has a library housing important manuscripts, with a limited number on exhibition. Tel. 676 2570. Mon. - Fri. 10.30 a.m. - 5.30 p.m. (may be closed for periods in June or August each year). Free. Groups should notify the Academy in advance. Still in Dawson St., St Anne's Church (Church of Ireland) is an 18th century church with 19th century façade and attractive interior. Lord Newtown in his will left £13.00 a year for the distribution of bread to the poor of the parish, and on the shelf put up in 1723 for this purpose you can still find bread.

21. Kildare St.

Turn east from Dawson St. along Nassau St., then turn south along Kildare St. Pass Alliance Française (formerly a gentlemen's club, with some quirky carvings on the windows, including monkeys playing billiards). Beside it is the Heraldic Museum (Tel. 603 0200. Mon. - Fri. 10.00 a.m. - 4.30 p.m., Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 12.30 p.m.). The National Library is located further along. The Public Reading Room may be visited, but to use the library a reader's ticket must be obtained on personal application, with identification. Mon. - Wed. 10.00 a.m. - 9.00 p.m., Thurs. - Fri. 10.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m., Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 1.00 p.m. The National Library Genealogical Service may be of interest to tourists of Irish descent and is freely accessible. Advice is available from genealogists and library staff on how to research family history, including background work before leaving home. Tel. 603 0230, or visit the website at http://www.heanet.ie/natlib/ for further information. Mon. - Fri. 10.00 a.m. - 4.30 p.m., Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 12.30 p.m. Beside the National Library is Leinster House (formerly the home of the Duke of Leinster, now seat of the Oireachtas or Irish Parliament, housing Dáil Éireann and Seanad Éireann). Next to Leinster House and worth a visit is the National Museum headquarters - prehistory, early Christian treasures (Ardagh Chalice, Tara Brooch etc.) and so on. Tues. - Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m., Sun. 2.00 p.m. - 5.00 p.m. Closed Mon. Free.

22. Baggot St. & Merrion Sq.

Along the north side of St. Stephen's Green, and Merrion Row and Baggot St. to Lower FitzWilliam St. At Number 29 Lower Fitzwilliam St., the Electricity Supply Board has restored a Georgian house, and provided period furnishings. There may be at most a 5-10 minute wait, then 10 minute audio visual show, followed by guided tour. Allow about 1 hour in all. Tel. 702 6165. Tues-Sat 10.00 a.m.- 5.00 p.m., Sunday 2.00 p.m. - 5.00 p.m., closed Mondays. £2.50, concessions £1.00, under-16s free. Several pleasant pubs are to be found in the Baggot St. area. North along Merrion St. Upper from Baggot St. Pass the Department of the Taoiseach (Prime Minister), an Edwardian building formerly occupied by University College Dublin, now part of Government Buildings. Open to the public on Sundays (tickets from nearby National Gallery). Pass or visit Natural History Museum (hours as for National Museum). Visit the National Gallery which has a good collection. Tel. 6615133. Mon. - Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 5.30 p.m. (to 8.00 p.m. on Thurs.), Sun. 2.00 p.m. - 5.30 p.m. Free. Merrion Square itself is a pleasant little park, surrounded by Georgian buildings. On the corner of Merrion Sq. and Clare St., is the home of Oscar Wilde's parents. Pass Green's bookshop in Clare St., along  Nassau St. to return to College Green.

23. O'Connell Bridge & the Quays.

Along Westmoreland St. to O'Connell Bridge. View downriver of Gandon's Custom House (1781-91), and the modern Financial Services Centre behind it. View of the Quays and the Ha'penny Bridge upstream. The river quays rivalled the O'Connell St - Grafton St. axis as the heart and face of the city. They suffered serious dereliction until very recently (partly because of road-widening plans of Dublin Corporation).

24. O'Connell St.

A wide and impressive main street, it was badly damaged in the 1916 uprising and in the Civil War. It was rebuilt, but later suffered with poor shop-fronts, fast food outlets etc. It is slowly improving but is still quite shabby. At the lower end of the street is the monument (1854) to Daniel O'Connell, the non-violent campaigner for Catholic emancipation. Eason's Bookshop, Clery's department store and Tourist Information are in the street, as is the General Post Office (or G.P.O.). Designed by Johnston, the post office was opened in 1818, occupied by Pearse and Connolly in the Easter Uprising of 1916, and the Proclamation of an Irish Republic was read there; it was gutted in the fighting which followed, and later restored. At the northern end of O'Connell St. is the Parnell Monument. In Lower Abbey St., off O'Connell St., is the national theatre, The Abbey, founded by a group which included Yeats. Tel. 878 7222.

25. Parnell Sq.

To the north of O'Connell St, in Cavendish Row, is the Gate Theatre. Tel. 874 4045. Further up, on the north side of Parnell Square, is the Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art (19th & 20th centuries). Tel. 874 1903. Tues. - Thurs. 9.30 a.m. - 6.00 p.m., Fri. - Sat. 9.30 a.m. - 5.00 p.m., Sun. 11.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. £5.00, £2.50 concessions, under-18s free, Wed. 2.30 p.m. - 6.00 p.m. is free for all. Also on the square is the Dublin Writers Museum. Tel. 872 2077. Mon. - Fri. 10.00 a.m. - 6.00 p.m., Sat. 10.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m., Sun. & Bank Holidays 11.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. £3.00, concessions £2.60.

Entertainment

Theatres such as The Gate, The Abbey (the National Theatre) & Peacock, the Project Arts Centre, the Olympia, The Gaiety, The Tivoli, The Focus.
The National Concert Hall.
The Point Depot is a big converted warehouse (and looks it), in an awkward part of town, but is often the venue for big concerts or other performances.

Visitors often want to see the local pubs, many of which feature traditional music at times (indicated by TM after the name below). Two websites worth visiting are http://ifp.uni-muenster.de/~tkeller/pub/irlpub.htm and http://mag.irish-music.net/Sessions/Sessions.htm for anyone seeking more detailed information about traditional music sessions. The music centre Ceol in Smithfield is discussed above at paragraph 3. Traditional pubs include Ryan's (Parkgate St.); The Brazen Head (Lower Bridge St., across the river from the Four Courts, TM); O'Shea's Merchant (also Lower Bridge St., TM with Irish dancing at times); Cobblestone (small pub in Smithfield, TM most evenings, and Sun. afternoons); The Stag's Head (Dame Court, off Dame St.); O'Neill's (Suffolk St.); O'Donoghue's (Merrion Row, TM); Doheny & Nesbitt (Lower Baggot St.); Toner's (Lower Baggot St.);   More modern and/or trendy pubs include The Morrison Hotel (Ormond Quay); Pravda (Liffey St.); Zanzibar (Ormond Quay); Porterhouse (Parliament St.); The Front Lounge (Parliament St.); Café en Seine (Dawson St.); Reynard's (Sth Frederick St.)  

Shopping

Henry St and Mary St  (including two big department stores, Roches Stores and Arnotts, as well as Marks & Spencer, Penney's, Dunne's, the Ilac Centre and Jervis St. Shopping Centre); O'Connell St (Eason's bookshop, Clery's department store);  Grafton St. (with Brown Thomas and Mark and Spencer), and surrounding area (Duke St., South Anne's St, Powerscourt Town House, Hibernian Way, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre) for more stylish shops and tourist shopping. Large book shops in Nassau St. and Dawson St. Temple Bar (south side of the Liffey near the Ha'penny Bridge) was a network of old-fashioned streets and buildings previously facing dereliction and demolition, but now re-vamped (to the point where it has lost much of the original character) with shops, galleries, the Arthouse, Irish Film Centre, and lively activity. Late shopping on Thursday evenings (to 8.00 or 9.00 p.m.).

July 2000,  © Joseph Donnelly